Photodamage and Aging Skin

Skin aging is a complex and varied process. Many factors influence how a particular individual's face will age. Heredity is certainly involved in terms of the charac teristics that a person may possess. Inherited characteristics such as bone structure and soft tissue positioning will influence aspects of the aging process having to deal with chronological years.

However, regardless of a person's age or inherent features, there are a set number of interacting factors that play a role in the over all aging scenario. These may consist of:

Lines that appear due to ongoing posit ional habits such as sleep lines
Expression lines that appear as a result of consistent facial movements
Changes in soft tissue and muscles oc curring from the effects of gravity
Intrinsic or biological aging
Extrinsic aging or photodamage

Intrinsic or biological aging is the natural and unavoidable aspect of true aging. The signs of true biological aging generally do not occur until the age of 70 or later. Bio logical aging consists primarily of a loss of tissue as well as a receding bone structure that results in a gaunt, sagging appearance. Cosmetic surgery is often able to address these issues and restore the youthful con tours and firmness of the underlying structure. In any case, cosmetic surgery cannot and does not address the primary cause of the appearance of aging skin: photodamage (sun damage). It is estimated that as much as 96% of the visible signs of aging are a result of cumulative sun damage. These include fine lines, wrinkles, textural changes, brown spots, elastosis (loss of elasticity), coarse dryness, blood vessel damage, skin growths, breakdown of collagen and yellow or gray skin tinges due to a decrease in the small vascular vessels that provide circulation to the surface of the skin. Col lectively, these changes caused by cumulative sun exposure can be grouped into a category often referred to as the over all "quality of skin." Fortunately, many of these changes can be avoided and/or new medically based skin care technologies can target specific aspects of the skin's response to sun exposure, enabling the skin to pro tect itself or reverse certain changes for a dramatically more youthful appearance. The bad news is that approximately 80% of the sun damage that will reveal itself on the sur face of the skin was programmed to appear from sun exposure that occurred before the age of 10! Generally it takes from 10 to 30 years for sun induced aging changes to ap pear. Medical science has established that if the skin could be protected from on-go ing sun exposure, it would not appear to age past the age of 25 until biological changes occur in the 70's. Conversely, doctors now recognize that many topically applied agents can assist in reversing the skin changes associated with environmental exposure.

Accelerated skin aging that is caused by cumulative sun exposure is a complex reactionary process. This process consists of countless changes that involve altered DNA biochemistry, breakdown of cell membranes and destructive effects on enzymes, proteins and amino acids, and abnormal changes to the immune system that are essential for information processing necessary for healthy youthful skin.

FREE RADICAL DAMAGE

One of the best and most accepted scien tific theories that exists today to explain sun related aging is referred to as "The Mem brane Hypothesis of Aging". The research in this area demonstrates that if the cell membranes can be protected against free radical destruction, the skin will not appear to age from sun exposure. The cell mem brane is a critical barrier that protects and insulates the cells which provide genetic coding and also maintains the cell's ability to remain active and viable. When skin is exposed to the sun, a complex reaction oc curs that sets in motion a chain of events that damages or destroys the membrane, and which translate into skin that shows the visible signs of aging.

Free radicals are oxygen molecules that have become highly reactive, usually by ex posure to UV light (sunlight). Oxygen is critical to our survival. Normal oxygen molecules contain what is referred to as a "paired electron".

When an oxygen molecule is exposed to vari ous environmental agents, particularly UV light, it becomes highly reactive. In this reac tive state the molecule has only one electron and is referred to as a free radical molecule.

Free radicals desperately seek other mol ecules in order to "steal an electron to achieve stabilization" by once again being paired. This is accomplished by the free radical attracting critical components, such as cell membranes, because the cell mem branes are extremely dense in electrons and thus are a desirable target. When free radi cals attack, it usually culminates in a kind of cascading effect that results in hundreds of thousands of cells being damaged in a split second.

Even minimal sun exposure triggers an in tense invasion of free radicals due to the release of inflammatory cells called mast cells that come from the lymph nodes. These inflammatory cells appear because UV damage causes the cells to perceive that a bacterial invasion has taken place. The cells try to destroy the perceived bacterial invad ers by releasing reactive oxygen molecules called free radicals. However, because there are actually no microbes for the free radicals to attack, the free radical molecules begin a destructive process that damages or destroys the cell membrane. Consistent release of free radicals has proven to result in the follow ing long-term damage:

Substantial destruction of collagen and elastin. (Collagen and elastin are the primary components of the skin's support structure.)
Skin becomes slack and loses its ability to restore itself to its original shape
Dry skin
Loss of muscle tone
Skin discoloration (such as brown spots)
Skin cancer
Impairment of the skin's immune function
Lines and wrinkles
Coarse textural changes
Damage to DNA
Weakening and destruction of cells that come in contact with free radicals

Certain topical agents such as antioxidants (free radical fighters), as well as other skin repair technologies, can actually "neutral ize" free radical activity by grabbing onto the free radical. As the free radical is captured, it is provided with the missing electron and thus is averted from attack ing cell membrane tissue.

THE QUALITY OF SKIN

Destructive processes that affect skin func tioning on a deeper level may take many years to become apparent. However, when we gaze in the mirror most people are concerned with the superficial appearance of skin. This includes things such as:

Evenness of skin coloration
Softness and suppleness
Refined texture and small follicle size
Translucency and light reflective qualities
Absence of fine line and wrinkles
Well defined contours and elasticity
Overall healthy and vibrant appearance

Much can be accomplished with regard to improving the quality of skin. In general, even if an individual has only experienced

a lifetime of casual sun exposure, skin qual ity begins to decline in the middle to late 20's. This decline has to do with deeper changes that are in turn reflected in the outer visible layer of dead skin called the stra tum corneum. In young healthy skin, these dead cells lay in a compact organized man ner like scales on a fish (Fig 1.) or the shingles on a roof. They provide a coherent barrier

Fig. 1

that protects the integrity of the skin and enhances its hydration capabilities. The stratum corneum is constantly shedding millions of microscopic cells that are then replaced by newer younger cells as they ma ture and migrate to the skin surface. As this process slows down, we see the beginning of something called "increased corneocyte cohesion". Simply put, the dead cells are adhering to the surface of the skin much longer instead of shedding. As they remain on the surface longer, they harden and con tinue to dry out. In the beginning, the changes may be subtle. The skin's surface may feel drier, the texture may begin to coarsen and the skin may not appear as soft and translucent. Moisturizers merely coat the surface of the skin, temporarily wet ting the dead dry layer and superficially filling in compromised areas. As a person gets older and the process accelerates, the texture of the skin appears coarser, follicles may appear dilated, fine lines and wrinkles emerge and the skin may take on a yellow ish or grayish cast. Under magnification the stratum corneum will appear disorganized and uneven. (Fig. 2)

Fig. 2

Cosmetic surgery cannot improve the "quality" of skin. Until recently, the only option that physicians could offer the pa tient to improve the skin's quality were chemical peels, dermabrasion, or CO2 laser resurfacing. Chemical peels are a way of inducing a controlled wounding or burning of the skin. The physician decides on the depth of the wounding based on how much sun damage is being addressed. As the new skin forms, the surface of the skin may appear years younger. In addi tion, deeper peels and laser resurfacing may cause some shrinkage of the underlying collagen structure which results in some skin tightening and firming.

Current medically based skin care tech nologies can assist in resurfacing the stratum corneum, resulting in dramatically smoother and younger appearing skin. Glycolic acid, for example, mimics the effect of a light chemical peel without

having to rely on controlled wounding or burning of the skin. Dramatic results can be achieved with regard to improving coarse uneven texture, fine lines and wrinkles and discoloration. Other topical substances have been identified that can actually halt certain destructive processes or put protective mechanisms in place that prevent the skin's breakdown. While these breakthroughs do not replace cosmetic sur gery or deeper peels and other procedures they play a critical role in enhancing the final outcome and ensuring a lasting result. In many cases these topical therapies may provide a level of rejuvenation that cannot be accomplished through surgery alone.

ADVANCED ANTI-AGING SKIN CARE BREAKTHROUGHS

Topically absorbable stabilized Vitamin C (C-ESTA)

Vitamin C plays an essential role in every aspect of the skin's functioning including growth, maintenance and repair of connec tive tissue, protection from free radical oxidation damage, wound healing, collagen synthesis and prevention of premature aging. Research has proven that if stabilized topical Vitamin C is transported into cells, it can stimulate the production of collagen and prevent its breakdown as well as initiate overall skin rejuvenation.

Stimulation of Neurotransmitters (C-ESTA)

Neurotransmitters are chemicals that allow the brain's messages to be executed into muscle movement. They are also responsible for youthful muscle tone that assists in maintaining firm facial contours. Breakthrough research has resulted in a revolutionary topical agent that, when com bined with Vitamin C, results in the stimulation of certain neurotransmitters. This process actually addresses areas of facial sagging such as nasolabial folds, forehead and jawline jowling.

Glycolic Acid (Bioglycolic Line)

Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule of any of the alpha hydroxy acids, as well as the great est bioactivity. In addition, its action on the stratum corneum is more apparent than other AHAs because it absorbs into the lowest levels and has a "bottom up" normalizing effect. This activity enables results that go far beyond su perficial exfoliation.

One of glycolic acid's primary benefits is its tremendous value as a resurfacing agent. By dissolving or dislodging the glue-like substance between cells, it encourages a "lifting" of the stratum corneum. This lift ing, removal and prevention of cellular buildup (increased corneocyte cohesion) makes glycolic acid a superb resurfacing agent by substantially improving skin texture, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, creating skin clarity and translucency, lessening and resolving skin discolorations and generally enhancing overall skin smoothness and suppleness.

Recently in-depth medical studies have produced definitive proof that glycolic acid, when formulated properly, stimulates collagen formation. This data also reveals that glycolic acid triggers production of substances in the skin (glycosaminoglyc ans) that not only provide hydration, but also give the skin volume. By maintaining epidermal volume, the skin appears plumper and firmer or "filled out".

Other research shows that glycolic acid is a powerful antioxidant with built-in sun protection factors.

Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Azelaic Acid

New research demonstrates that specially balanced combinations of various acid groups can tremendously enhance or ac celerate a skin care program. For example, Glycolic (an Alpha Hydroxy Acid / AHA), Salicylic (a Beta Hydroxy Acid / BHA) and Azelaic acid (Heptadicarboxylic Acid / AA) can provide further skin resurfacing ben efits. This combination also appears to provide more intensive skin rejuvenation over using any of the acids alone.

Transforming Growth Factor

(TGF BETA-1)

TGF Beta-1 or Transforming Growth Factor is a remarkable breakthrough that facilitates cellular communication. World wide research demonstrates that many skin aging factors can be slowed down signifi cantly or entirely halted. TGF Beta-1 is one of the growth factors that collectively make up what are referred to as cytokines. Cytokines are proteins that sit on the top of cells and direct and signal certain cellu lar interactions that are critical in order for skin to appear young and healthy Some of these cellular activities include wound healing as well as the production of high quality collagen and elastin.

Antioxidants

Substances which have the capability of in terrupting or even preventing free radical damage at the cellular level are referred to as antioxidants or free radical scavengers. Be cause of the scientific and medical data validating the "Membrane Hypothesis of Aging", antioxidants are considered an essential component in helping to prevent many of the visible signs of aging. Common antioxidants include Vitamins A, C, and E along with beta carotene. Other technological breakthroughs such as Nayad (a yeast cell extract), along with certain plant extracts, are also potent scavengers. It is important to note that exacting formulary guidelines are critical and that merely adding an antioxidant ingredient to a product doesn't necessarily mean that it will be effective. In fact, certain combinations of antioxidants can actually trigger more free radicals! Additionally, there are ingredients and chemical by-products which should be avoided because their interaction can render the antioxidants ineffective and even encour age additional cellular damage.

In conjunction with leading medical research ers, Jan Marini Skin Research continues to incorporate the most recent breakthroughs in order to address and prevent this aspect of the aging process. Currently, new research is focusing on substances that can actually cause the cell to produce its own antioxidant defense mechanism. Clinical data indicates that by stimulating a protective capability within the cell, the cell will function at a level of efficiency that was previously unachievable. Other projects involve the development of forms of Vitamin E that are thousands of times more potent than those that are currently available. Studies indicate dramatic lessening of lines and wrinkles, particularly in the eye area.

Factor-A

Factor A is a cutting edge technology that utilizes a form of Vitamin A called Retinol (ALL-Trans-Retinol / ROL). Numerous medical studies have confirmed that Ret inol has the activity and efficacy of Retinoic Acid (the active for of Vitamin A in Retin A") without many of the side effects.

Jan Marini Skin Research has identified new stabilization and delivery components that enable Retinol to be delivered in a stable fashion where it is converted by certain enzymes into Retinoic Acid, while avoid ing superficial redness, peeling and irritation. Some recent studies demonstrate that stabilized Retinol may be more active in the skin than Retinoic Acid.

Dramatic improvement can be observed with regard to reversing the appearance of aging and photodamaged skin. All-transr etinol is also a potent tool in treating acne and maintaining clearing.

Factor-A Plus

Factor-A Plus combines the benefits of Retinol (ALL-Trans-Retinol) with the proven results of glycolic acid. This syner gistic combination increases cell metabolism several fold and intensifies the effects of other resurfacing agents. It is an exceptional tool for skin rejuvenation.

Age Intervention Face

Age Intervention Face is a breakthrough in topical anti-aging technology targeted to adult women over the age of 25. Age Inter vention addresses the appearance of aging skin changes by targeting two critical areas: hormonal levels and changes associ ated with cumulative sun exposure.

Age Intervention Hands

Age Intervention Hands is a true hand rejuvenating product that dramatically improves the appearance of aging, sund amaged, and discolored hands. Age Intervention Hands is comprised of an intensive combination of acids, lightening agents and anti-inflammatory agents that result in measurably younger looking hands.

Sun Protection

It cannot be emphasized enough that con sistent ongoing protection from UV exposure is essential in order to prevent sun damage and protect rejuvenated skin from further damage. Jan Marini Skin Research has advanced sun protection technology to a level that combines traditional sunscreeni ng agents and newly researched non-chemical sun blocking substances for enhanced protection. Additional skin conditioning agents and antioxidants have resulted in the ability to enhance the skin's protective immune mechanisms as well as assist in the cellular recovery process.